Wallace, Idaho, occupies less than one square mile and every building is on the National Register of Historic Places. Getting that designation for the entire town was an act of self-preservation.
Don’t mess with Wallace.
When my husband was growing up in Missoula, he, his parents, and his sisters drove through Wallace quite a few times to see their family in eastern Washington.
The last time Jim made the trek was in the 1970s, and he remembered taking the surface streets through the town even though they were on I-90.
That’s because, at the time, that stretch had the last traffic light on any coast-to-coast Interstate highway.
To speed things up through the valley, the Federal Highway Administration wanted to convert I-90 through Wallace into a freeway. Doing so would have demolished most of the town.
That didn’t sit well with its residents, so in 1979 the city leaders got every building listed on the National Register and downtown became an official historic district.
I can picture the “take that!” expressions of Wallace residents as the FHWA realized they’d have to build an elevated viaduct freeway instead.
Our first stop in the still-standing town was the Wallace Chamber of Commerce and its open-air mining museum. We explored, talked to the man inside the visitor center, and then entered the time capsule of downtown.
We wanted to see the Center of the Universe. I mean, we’d already been to the Center of the World the year before, and on this trip had visited the (almost) Center of the Nation.
We certainly couldn’t miss the Center of the Universe.
How did Wallace receive this honor? Well, it began with lead in the water. In the early 2000s, the Environmental Protection Agency discovered that the silver mines had caused an environmental disaster.
It was so bad the EPA declared a 21-square mile area around Kellogg, Idaho, a Superfund Site. Upon further inspection, the government agency exponentially increased the area of the site to 1,500-square miles, which included Wallace.
This would be disastrous for the economy, especially since some people in Wallace thought the lead was naturally occurring and not the fault of the mines.
It was 2004, and Mayor Ron Garitone was having none of it. With an idea hatched in a bar (where else) by four residents, it was decided that since the EPA made decisions based on the concept of “if it can’t be proven, it must be true,” then so could Wallace.
In a fit of cheeky pique, Mayor Garitone declared that a sewer access cover was the Center of the Universe, because thanks to the “newly discovered science of Probabilism” nobody could “unearth one scintilla of proof” that it wasn’t.
Did the EPA learn nothing from the FHWA? Don’t. Mess. With. Wallace.
Joking aside, the pollution in the Silver Valley was and is no laughing matter. Many of the valley’s residents have serious health problems, with lead levels that still far exceed recommendations.
Jim made sure I didn’t get hit by a car while I straddled the sewer access cover. I took my photo of the Center of the Universe and we followed up that excitement with a visit to the Wallace District Mining Museum.
- Visit the Wallace District Mining Museum: This museum provides a fascinating glimpse into the town’s mining history, with exhibits on mining equipment, minerals, and more.
- Take a walking tour of historic downtown: Wallace’s downtown area is filled with beautifully preserved buildings dating back to the late 1800s and early 1900s. Pick up a walking tour guide from the local Chamber of Commerce to learn more about the town’s history and architecture.
- Hike the Pulaski Trail: This scenic trail follows the path of the 1910 wildfire that devastated the area. The trail offers stunning views of the surrounding forest and the opportunity to learn about the history of firefighting in the region.
- Explore the Hiawatha Trail: This 15-mile rail trail offers a unique biking or hiking experience through tunnels, trestles, and stunning mountain scenery. Bike rentals and shuttles are available from local outfitters.
- Take a scenic drive: The Silver Valley Scenic Byway runs through Wallace and offers stunning views of the surrounding mountains and valleys. Stop at scenic overlooks along the way to take in the views and snap some photos.
- Visit the Oasis Bordello Museum: This museum offers a glimpse into the town’s more colorful history, with exhibits on the local brothels and madams who once operated in the area.
- Enjoy local cuisine: Wallace has several excellent restaurants and cafes serving up delicious food using local ingredients. Try the huckleberry pancakes at the Red Light Garage or the house-made sausages at Smokehouse Bar-B-Que.
- Attend a local event: Wallace hosts several events throughout the year, including the annual Huckleberry Festival in August and the Fall for History Festival in October. Check the local events calendar to see what’s happening during your visit.
To plan your Wallace Idaho vacation, visit their website.